The Modern watermelon cultivars are
categorized into 4 groups:
- The picnic melons are jumbo-sized,
fifteen to fifty pounds.
- The Icebox melons are smaller
family-sized fruits, five to fifteen pounds.
- The seedless melons are hybrids
bred to be self-sterile. They weigh ten to twenty pounds.
- The Yellow/orange-fleshed melons
are often considered to be sweeter than red and pink watermelons.
Watermelons are usually planted from
seeds sown directly into the garden as soon as the soil warms to about seventy
degrees Fahrenheit. In cool regions with short growing seasons, the Watermelon
seeds are started indoors 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost date. Most
watermelons take eighty to ninety days to mature, although there are
short-season varieties that are ready to harvest about seventy days after the
seedlings sprout.
Watermelon Plant Info
The botanical name: The botanical
name is Citrillus lunatus.
The common name: The common name is
Watermelon.
The plant type: Watermelon is an
annual fruiting vine.
The sun exposure: Watermelon plants
prefer full sun.
The size: Nine to eighteen inches
tall; ten to fifteen foot vine spread.
Soil type: The plant does well in
loamy, sandy, well-drained soil.
The soil pH: Slightly acidic to
neutral (6.0 to 6.8)
The native area: Watermelon is native
to Western Africa.
USDA Hardiness Zones: Grown as an
annual in zones two to eleven.
Watermelon Varieties
There are different varieties of
Watermelon.
The early/ short-season varieties
mature in seventy to seventy-five days:
- The Blacktail Mountain: The
Blacktail Mountain has red flesh with a dark green rind. They weigh six to
twelve pounds.
- The 'Faerie': The 'Faerie' produces
watermelons with red flesh and a yellow rind. The 'Faerie' are relatively small
fruits, at five to six pounds.
- The 'Golden Crown: The 'Golden
Crown watermelons have red flesh and yellow rinds. They weigh four to seven
pounds.
- The 'Sugar Baby: The 'Sugar Baby is
a great red-fleshed cultivar. Melons weigh six to ten pounds.
The long-season varieties mature in
eighty to eighty-five days:
- The 'Ali Baba: The 'Ali Baba has
oblong-shaped melons with red flesh. Melons weigh twelve to thirty pounds.
- The 'Moon and Stars: The 'Moon and
Stars is a hybrid plant with beautiful melons. Both red- and yellow-fleshed
cultivars are actually available.
- The 'New Queen: The 'New Queen has
orange-fleshed melons with few seeds and high sugar content. The 'New Queen
weigh five to six pounds.
The seedless varieties: The so-called
seedless varieties of watermelon are not truly seedless, but the seeds are
small, white, and edible. These are self-sterile hybrids. The seedless
watermelons actually have a lower germination rate and they are more expensive
than seeded watermelons, so starting them in peat or paper pots will give you a
slight edge over starting them in the ground.
- The 'Revolution: The 'Revolution is
a red-fleshed melon that matures in eighty days. Melons are twenty to
twenty-six pounds.
- The 'Superseedless: The
'Superseedless has red-fleshed melons that are ready to harvest ninety to
ninety-five days after sprouting. Melons are sixteen to twenty pounds.
- The 'Sweet Bite: The 'Sweet Bite
has red-fleshed melons that are ready to harvest in about seventy-five days.
Melons are five to eight pounds.
- The 'Triple Gold: The 'Triple Gold
is a yellow-fleshed melon that matures in about seventy-five days. Fruits way
eight to ten pounds.
How to Plant Watermelons
You can either sown the Watermelons
direct in the garden after danger of frost has passed, or you can start them
indoors in paper or peat pots, 2 to 4 weeks before your last frost date. Don't
rush to plant the watermelons, just wait until air temperatures remain steady
at seventy to eighty degrees Fahrenheit, about the time the peonies begin to
bloom. The Watermelon seeds need warm soil to germinate. Outdoor soil can be
warmed to the necessary seventy degrees Fahrenheit by covering it with black
plastic.
Watermelons are usually planted in
slightly mounded hills spaced four to six feet apart; Watermelon plants are
large plants that need room to sprawl. Plant 4 to 5 watermelon seeds in the
center of the hill, about one inch deep. When the watermelon seeds sprout you
can thin them out, leaving 2 or 3 plants per hill. If planting from nursery
seedlings or seeds started indoors, plant 2 transplants per hill.
In cooler climates, row covers can be
used to keep the young Watermelon plants warm. Row covers will also protect the
Watermelon plants from the many insect pests that are attracted to watermelons,
but they actually need to be taken off when the flowers bloom to ensure
pollination.
Light requirement
Watermelons actually require full
sunlight in order to thrive. The Watermelon plants can also tolerate some
partial shade, mostly in hotter climates, but plenty of sun is required to
develop the sugars in the melons. Excessively shady conditions will actually
reduce the number and size of the fruits.
Soil requirement
Watermelon plants grow well in almost any well-draining rich soil. A mildly acidic to neutral soil pH of 6.0 to 6.8 is best for growing Watermelons. Heavily amending the soil with plenty of organic matter before planting is advised, as the plants are heavy feeders.
Water requirement
Watermelons actually need regular
watering when they are first transplanted. Once the plant begins setting
fruits, you can ease up on the water, unless it is an especially dry season.
Their roots are relatively deep and they can withstand short dry periods. In
fact, the watermelons will lose sweetness if given too much water.
Temperature and humidity requirement
Watermelon plants prefer hot growing
conditions, eighty degrees Fahrenheit and higher. Watermelons will do equally
well in humid and arid conditions provided the soil moisture is adequate.
Fertilizer requirement
Watermelon plants are actually heavy
feeders. Make sure your soil for planting is well amended with organic matter
before planting. If your soil is lacking in organic matter you can add a
slow-release organic fertilizer at the start of the season. To keep the
watermelons growing steadily, you can side dress at mid-season with a layer of
compost.
If you choose to apply chemical
fertilizer, feed early with a fertilizer that contains more nitrogen than
phosphorus and potassium, since this will encourage the growth of the leaves
and vine. But after flowering begins, fertilize the plant a second time with a
low-nitrogen fertilizer that encourages growth of flowers and fruit.
Growing Watermelon from seed
The Watermelon seeds do not actually
require any treatment (eg soaking, stratification) before sowing. The
Watermelon seeds actually grow best when they are sown directly into the
garden.
- Sow the Watermelon seeds directly
in the garden 20mm deep and 60-80cm apart, with rows 150-180cm apart.
- Make sure you keep the soil moist
but never wet or dry.
- The watermelon seeds should
germinate in around ten to fourteen days at a soil temperature of 27-32°C.
- The young Watermelon seedlings will
need protection from pests, pets and weather until they are established.
Watermelon is actually a tender crop
that is sensitive to frost. Don’t transplant the Watermelon seedlings or sow
the seeds outside until all danger of frost has passed.
How to Harvest Watermelon
Judging the ripeness of a watermelon
actually requires some experience, but there are a few signs that can help you
learn how to determine when they are ready for harvest:
- The watermelon rind will start to
become dull.
- The curly tendrils on the vine,
near where the melon attaches, will actually turn brown.
- You will not be able to pierce the
rind with your thumbnail.
- The part that rests on the ground
will change from pale light green to a pale yellow.
Watermelons are best eaten right
away. The cut watermelon should be refrigerated and only keeps for a few days.
Do not store the uncut melons in the refrigerator. Opt for a cool room
(forty-five to fifty degrees Fahrenheit), if possible. In this environment,
uncut melons will keep for up to 2 weeks.
Pests and disease control
One of the biggest watermelon pests
is the cucumber beetle. Monitor for the eggs early. If you are using row
covers, you will exclude many of them from the vines. Also Watermelons are
prone to aphids, vine borers, and mites.
Some diseases can be a problem to
Watermelon plants, which include anthracnose, fusarium wilt, alternaria leaf
spot, and gummy stem blight. If these diseases are prevalent, you can choose
resistant varieties of watermelon. Watermelon plants can also be prone to
powdery mildew, but this is rarely serious, only unsightly. Ground-level
watering, rather than overhead watering, will keep soil spores from splashing
on the leaves and causing mildew.
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