How To Grow Blueberries from Seeds

 

The scientific name of Blueberry plant is Vaccinium spp and the plants are easy to grow with a slow to moderate growth rate. Blueberries can actually be planted directly in the ground, form landscape shrubs in your backyard, or grow in pots to add a pop of color to your patio. Blueberry bush sizes range from one to eight feet tall and two to ten feet wide, depending on the species.

Furthermore, Blueberries actually include several species of flowering, fruiting shrubs within the Vaccinium genus, all native to North America. Relatives within the Vaccinium genus include the cranberry, bilberry, lingonberry, and huckleberry.

Blueberry bushes have pointed, oblong leaves that are leathery to the touch and turn a brilliant red color in the fall. The flowers of Blueberries appear in clusters of small, white, bell-shaped blooms in the late spring, leading to deliciously edible berries that ripen from green to a deep purple-blue.

Blueberry Plant Info

The common name: The common name is Blueberry.

The botanical name: The botanical name is   Vaccinium spp.

The family: Blueberry belongs to Ericaceae family.

The plant type: Fruit, perennial

The size: One to eight feet tall, two to ten feet wide.

The sun exposure: Blueberry plants prefer full sun.

The soil type: Blueberry plant does well in sandy, well-drained soil.

The soil pH: Acidic

The blooming time: The blooming time is spring.

USDA hardiness zones: Three to nine. 

The native area: Blueberries are native to North America. 

Types of Blueberries

There are actually 4 main types of blueberry plants: highbush, lowbush, half-high, and rabbiteye. Their size primarily classifies them, and plant breeders continue cultivating new varieties to improve their vigor. The following are the main types:

- Highbush blueberry: The Highbush blueberry is a roughly 6 foot shrub hardy in zones four through seven. This is the most common and productive type of blueberry. The varieties suitable for cold winters include 'Blueray,' 'Bluecrop,' 'Herbert,' 'Jersey,' and 'Meader.' Types known for big berries include 'Blueray,' 'Berkeley,' 'Bluecrop,' 'Coville,' 'Darrow,' and 'Herbert,' and a variety produces pink berries called 'Pink Lemonade.' 

- Southern highbush blueberry: The Southern highbush blueberry is considered somewhat hard to grow, but several cultivars are popular for Southern gardens, including 'Windsor,' 'Emerald,' and 'Springhigh,' these are shorter, 3 to 6 foot-tall bushes with a 4 to 5 foot spread. They are grown in zones seven through ten.

- Lowbush blueberry: the Lowbush blueberry are bushes well suited for the coldest climates, as far north as zone 3. The Lowbush blueberries have a much different growth habit from other types, growing about 1 foot tall with a creeping spread. The Lowbush blueberry are native to the northeast United States and southern Canada, the berries have a waxy covering that makes the fruit look gray. These are sometimes considered wild blueberries; only a few named cultivars are available.

- Half-high blueberries: The Half-high blueberries are a newer breeding development, including varieties developed by crossing highbush and lowbush species. Most of these grow eighteen to forty-eight inches high. Popular cultivars include 'Northblue,' 'North Country,' and 'Northland.' The berries are typically less sweet than highbush blueberries, but they work well in pies, jams, and preserves.

- Rabbiteye blueberry: The Rabbiteye blueberry was previously categorized as Vaccinium ashei. The Rabbiteye blueberry is grown mainly in the southeastern United State. Growing as high as fifteen feet, it requires 2 or more varieties to pollinate correctly. Recommended types include 'Woodard,' 'Powderblue,' and 'Brightwell,' 'Delite,' which is another good late-bearing variety. The Rabbiteye blueberries are excellent choices for gardens in zones seven through nine. 

Blueberries vs. Huckleberries

The blueberries and huckleberries actually come from the same genus. The fruits look similar at first glance: they are both small and round with a blueish color. However, the huckleberries tend to be tarter than blueberries, and their seeds are noticeably hard when you bite into them (unlike blueberry seeds).

How to plant Blueberry

When to plant Blueberry

If you want to select blueberry bushes, the best choice is the bare-root 2 to 3 year-old plants. The older plants suffer more transplant shock and will take a few years to begin producing large harvests. The blueberry bushes are generally planted in the early to mid spring. In USDA Hardiness Zones six and higher, the blueberry bushes also can be planted in the late fall.

Where Blueberries grow best

Make sure you pick a spot that receives full sun, but is sheltered from strong winds. Avoid a planting site that is close to tall trees or shrubs that might block the sunlight or compete for soil moisture and nutrients. Make sure the planting site has good soil drainage. You can mix some peat moss into your planting hole to keep the soil loose, acidic, and well-drained. Blueberries can as well be grown in containers with sufficient sunlight and moisture.

Spacing, Depth, and Support

The Blueberry bushes should be spaced in a row about 4 to 5 feet apart; adjacent rows should be spaced 9 to 10 feet apart to provide plenty of room for harvesting. For bare-root plants, spread the roots out into a prepared hole, then cover them with soil and ensure the root ball is no more than 1/2 inch below the soil surface. For container-grown blueberries, you can plant them at the same depth that they were in the nursery pot. The blueberry bushes are sturdy plants and they generally don't need any support structure.

Light requirement

Blueberry plants actually need full sun to grow and fruit well. This means at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight on most days.

Soil requirement

The Blueberry plants must be grown in very acidic soil with a pH of 4.0 to 5.2.  The Blueberry plants also grow best in soil that's rich in organic matter. If your garden has heavy clay soil, the Blueberry plants will fare better in raised beds where you can control the soil composition and pH. Sandy soil is preferable to dense clay.

You can add a layer of mulch after planting: Evergreen wood chips, sawdust, and pine needles will help to keep the soil acidic. To get the proper soil pH for growing blueberry plants, it is best to amend the soil the season before planting. Garden sulfur or aluminum sulfur can be mixed into the top 6 inches of the soil to lower the pH as needed. Your local garden center or extension office can test your soil to tell you how much sulfur you need. It is wise to retest your soil before planting to ensure you've achieved the best results. Continue amending the soil periodically because the soil tends to revert to its original pH.

It is also common for blueberry plant leaves to begin to yellow. Although this is usually a sign of iron deficiency, it is probably not caused by a lack of iron in the soil. This symptom likely indicates that the soil pH is too high, and the blueberry plants cannot access the iron available. If you see yellowing leaves worsening, you can have the soil pH tested and then make adjustments as necessary.

Water requirement

Make sure the Blueberry plants get deep watering at least once per week. The Blueberry plants are shallow-rooted and they need at least a couple of inches of water each week (more during dry spells). You can also utilize an automatic irrigation system to ensure consistent water for your Blueberry plants.

Temperature and humidity requirement

The temperature requirements of blueberry plants actually vary according to the species. The traditional highbush types actually prefer humid air and a cold winter climate, but variants bred for Southern gardens do not tolerate freezing temperatures. Most types prefer protection from drying winds.

Fertilizer requirement

Do not fertilize your blueberry plants in their first year. The plant roots are sensitive to salt until the Blueberry plants are established. Once your blueberry plants have been planted for 1 year, you can begin feeding them based on 2 main indicators: when the flower buds first open, then again when berries start to form. Make sure you remove weeds regularly to ensure soil nutrients are not consumed by weeds rather than your blueberry plants.

Ammonium sulfate is usually used as a fertilizer for blueberry plants instead of aluminum sulfur used to lower the pH. You can use any fertilizer for acid-loving plants, including blueberry food and azalea food. Gardeners can either make foliar applications (applying directly to the plant leaves) or fertilize the soil, and many choose to use organic fertilizers like fish emulsion, compost, or manure tea.

Pollination

Blueberry plants can self-pollinate. However, for best results, just plant 2 or more bushes—2 are good, but 3 are better. The diversity will result in a higher fruit yield and larger fruits. Ensure the Blueberry varieties you choose bloom simultaneously to ensure cross-pollination between the plants occurs.

How to harvest Blueberries

Blueberries will normally be ready to harvest between June and August. Most blueberry plants start to produce fruit by their 3rd year, but they won’t produce fully until about their 6th year. The mature blueberry bushes yield around 8 quarts of berries per bush. Extending your blueberry harvest is possible by planting 2 or more bushes, such as early-, mid-, and late-season varieties.

The only reliable way to know whether the blueberries are ready to pick is to actually taste them. The ripe blueberries will readily come off the stem. The blueberries are their sweetest if allowed to stay on the plant for at least a week after turning blue. Hold a container under berry clusters, and then gently pick them off with your other hand to drop the fruits into the container.

You can put them in the refrigerator, unwashed as soon as possible. They typically can keep up to a week when refrigerated (wash them before use). The berries can either be eaten fresh or used in baked goods, and they also can be frozen and be kept in the freezer for around six to twelve months.

How to grow Blueberries in pots

Blueberries are actually one of the easiest berries to grow in containers. The plants are popular in home gardens because they can grow in small spaces, including containers. Containers are especially ideal if you don't have adequate soil conditions for blueberries. Use a container at least eighteen inches deep with ample drainage holes. An unglazed clay pot is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls.

You can use one container per plant and also choose a blueberry variety that remains relatively small. Select a potting mix made especially for acid-loving plants, and then plant your blueberries at the same depth they were in the nursery pots. Make sure you keep the soil lightly moist but never soggy, and make sure the container gets plenty of sunlight. Use a fertilizer made for acid-loving plants in the spring.

Pruning Blueberry plant

Blueberry plants will continue producing at their best with some maintenance pruning. In the first 2 years, remove any flowers that appear to help your plants grow more vigorously. You can leave the flowers on for the 3rd year. They won't produce many berries, but no pruning is necessary until the fourth year.

Beginning in the 4th year, prune your blueberry bushes in late winter or early spring while they are still dormant. A good rule of thumb is to prune about 1/3 of the Blueberry plant to encourage new growth. Using clean, sharp garden shears or a small wood saw, remove any dead, broken, crossed, or weak branches where they meet the main stem. The goal is to open up the bush so light can reach the middle, so it's also important to trim any branches that cross each other.

Maintenance pruning in subsequent years should aim at thinning out the older branches. Cut back the oldest, thickest branches to near ground level, then prune back branches that have grown too long or too thin. Older branches will look gray; newer branches will have more of a reddish tinge.

How to propagate Blueberries

Like many woody shrubs, Blueberry plants can be propagated by rooting cuttings from softwood or hardwood. Not only is this a cost-effective way to get a new plant, but it also helps to thin out mature plants. The best time to take softwood cuttings is in the early spring, while hardwood cuttings are best taken in late winter before new growth begins. Here is how:

- Choose a healthy branch. Use pruners to cut off the last 5 inches of growth from the tip of the branch, and then remove all but the top 2 or 3 leaves.

- Apply a rooting hormone to the cut end.

- Plant the cutting in a moistened soilless potting mix in a small container. Make sure you place the pot in a warm room that isn't exposed to drafts or temperature fluctuations.

- Keep the pot in bright, indirect light, and make sure the growing medium stays moist but not soggy. It can take a few months for the cutting to root.

- Once the new leaves have developed and you feel resistance when gently tugging on the cutting (indicating that it has grown roots), it is ready to be planted in the garden. For hardwood cuttings, wait until spring to transplant outdoors.

Growing Blueberries from seed

Before planting the blueberry seeds, they must first be put in the freezer for ninety days to mimic the winter cooling period. You can grow the blueberries from fruit by freezing them, then mashing them or putting them in a blender or food grinder. Once macerated, the seeds sink to the bottom. Collect the Blueberry seeds by separating them from the juice and pulp.

Fall is actually the best time to plant the blueberry seeds in warm climates, while spring is best in cool climates. Fill a flat tray with moistened sphagnum moss, then sprinkle the blueberry seeds on top, and then lightly cover them with more moss. Cover the tray with newspaper and then place it in a room between sixty and seventy degrees Fahrenheit. Keep the moss consistently moist.

The Blueberry seedlings should emerge in about a month, at which point you can remove the newspaper and then keep the tray in bright, indirect light. Once the seedlings are 2 to 5 inches tall, they can be planted in an equal mix of peat moss, sand, and soil. Continue to keep them moist. They should be large enough to plant in the garden during the spring of their second year after the threat of frost has passed.

Potting and repotting Blueberries

You should start growing blueberries in as large of a container as possible. If you see roots emerging from drainage holes or the top of your container, it’s time to repot into something larger. Make sure you choose a container that comfortably fits the root ball.

Fill your container with fresh potting mix or a soilless medium of equal parts shredded pine bark and sphagnum peat moss. After removing the blueberry plant from its current container, gently shake off any excess soil. Replant the shrub at the same depth it was in its previous container. Make sure you keep the soil moist but not soggy.

Overwintering

Blueberry bushes actually go dormant over the winter and they are generally hardy to the coldest conditions of their hardiness zones. However, they can be susceptible to fluctuating winter temperatures that trigger the new growth. If your blueberry plants are growing in pots, it's helpful to cover them in frost blankets to minimize freezing air and wind chills. To protect the bushes in the ground and maintain consistent soil temperatures, you can add a layer of mulch around them before the weather gets cold.

Pests and diseases

By far, the biggest problem growing blueberry plants is keeping birds at bay. Placing bird netting over your blueberry plants or using a scarecrow can be successful if you have only a few bushes. However, if you have a large blueberry patch, consider trying a bird deterrent that sends a bird-in-distress call to repel birds.

Insects to be on the lookout for include: cherry fruit worm, scale, blueberry tip borer, cranberry fruit worm, and plum curculio. You can check with your local extension for the prescribed deterrents and treatments if these are common pests in your area.

Some fungal diseases can affect blueberry plants, including powdery mildew, rust (which can be easily treated with neem oil), and leaf spot diseases. Your best defense is to plant genetically resistant varieties. It also helps to give your plants plenty of space for good air circulation, grow them in full sun, clean up any fallen debris, and replace the mulch annually so that fungal spores cannot overwinter in the area. If you experience these problems, you might need to use a fungicide labeled for use on edible plants.

Some other common blueberry diseases to be aware of include:

- Anthracnose: This fungal disease actually spreads rapidly in damp weather. Symptoms are bright pink clusters of spores on the developing berries.

- Botrytis: Another fungus that actually thrives in damp conditions, botrytis will cause the Blueberry fruit to wither and rot.

- Canker: This disease begins in the lower parts of the canes. You will actually notice small reddish spots that will enlarge into a bullseye. If left untreated, they will eventually circle and girdle the cane, causing it to die back.

- Mummy berry: One of the more severe diseases affecting blueberries, this disease is caused by a fungus. The first sign of an infestation is the blackening of flower clusters, which eventually die. Because it is a fungus, the spores can linger and infect the remaining blossoms. The resulting Blueberry fruit turns tan and hard, looking like mummified berries.

- Twig blight: Twig blight can start off looking very similar to canker. As twig blight progresses, it can affect the crown, smaller branches, and twigs and cause leaf spots.